Arako Kannon-ji, the old temple where Enku-botoke statues stay

While I was traveling in the Nagoya with a friend, we visited Arako Kannon-ji temple.
Before the departure I had searched information about "Enku-botoke", the handmade wooden Buddha statues by monk Enku.
I had known many Enku-botoke exist in Chubu region which including Nagoya.
Then I learned the Arako Kannon-ji was famous for possession and exhibition of the statues.
So I made a plan to visit the temple in my travel.

Me and the friend came to Takabata station by subway.
Both of us had no sense of direction, so we strayed a bit, but finally arrived the temple.
Arako Kannon-ji temple was founded as a temple of Tendai sect in 729.
Also a warlord and later daimyo of Kaga province at the Sengoku period, Maeda Toshiie born near the temple.
In addition Arako Kannon-ji was the family temple for Maeda clan.

The temple had buildings, a big gate and a pagoda.
We entered a building.
We took off our shoes at the entrance and entered a hall.
There were some docents and other visitors like us.
At the front side of the hall there was an alcove and inside there the Enku-botoke were set on the altar.
After we took some instruction from an docent we went to near the altar.
There were various size and type of the statues.
According to the temple, totally 1240 of them were there.
Enku (1632-1695) left about 5300 of his handmade wooden statues in travel through Japan, so almost twenty five percent of them are in Arako Kannon-ji now.
Each statue had own gentleness and primitiveness.
That made me imagine the personality of Enku.
We appreciated the statues until we became tired.

Tamagoyaki aka Akashiyaki in Akashi city, the noble twin of Takoyaki

Akashi city, Hyogo, is a famous place for seafood such as sea bream, conger and octopus.
Also there is a nice food which is famous among people in Kansai region.
It is Tamagoyaki aka Akashiyaki.
Akashiyaki is a small ball shaped dumpling.
The food is called tamagoyaki by local people in Akashi, but generally tamagoyaki means Japanese omelette in Japan, so in outside of Akashi, it is called Akashiyaki to distinguish.

Akashiyaki was one of origin of Takoyaki in Osaka, thus they look almost similar.
But there are differences between Akashiyaki and Takoyaki.
For both foods octopus is used as a topping, however in contrast to Takoyaki which has various toppings such as green onion or dried bonito shavings, Akashiyaki has only octopus.
It doesn't have another toppings except octopus.
Moreover, the quantity of eggs in the dough of Akashiyaki is more than Takoyaki has.
The most big difference is, we don't put any sauce on Akashiyaki as we do for Takoyaki.
We eat Akashiyaki with dipping it in a special soup.

The egg flavor in the dough is stronger than Takoyaki, using a soup instead of a sauce, so Akashiyaki has very different taste to Takoyaki.
If you have known the taste of Takoyaki before you eat Akashiyaki, you will have strange feeling when you eat Akashiyaki.
Both Akashiyaki and Takoyaki are different but tasty foods.
However in my opinion, I thought Akashiyaki is a bit more refined, because we need chopsticks to eat the food and we need some manner to dip the dumpling into a soup.
It is not similar to eat Takoyaki.
I am sure you will have new experience with Akashiyaki.

Suna-mushi onsen, the sand bath in Ibusuki

Suna-mushi onsen (natural sand bath) is a very unique style of onsen in Ibusuki, Kagoshima.
Along the coast of Surigahama in Ibusuki city, there are hotels or onsen facilities which serve suna-mushi onsen style bath.

When you take the bath, you will take the procedure below.
At first, you change your cloth into a yukata (Japanese bathrobe) in a building.
Then you go outside, and walk to the suna-mushi onsen place on beach side.
They set a roof over the onsen place.
You enter under the roof, cover your head with a towel and lie down on the sand bed following instructions of onsen workers there.
Then, the workers put plenty of sand on your body by spade.
You are buried in the sand bath except your face.
Onsen is go through under the sand bed, so you will feel a heat on your back soon.
You begin to sweat all over youｒ body.

When I went to the onsen place and tried the suna-mushi onsen, an onsen worker told me 10 minutes is enough to get the effect of the onsen.
Also he told me some customers didn't follow the instructions of the workers and stayed far more than 10 minutes.
According to the worker, finally the customers got burned by heat of the onsen.

Actually the suna-mushi onsen is very comfortable and good for your health, but it is not good to spend too much time on the hot sand bed.
When you go to there, please follow the instruction by the onsen workers and enjoy safely.

The refreshing tea from a southern country, Chiran green tea

Kagoshima prefecture is a largest production area of green tea in Japan next to Shizuoka.
Above all, Chiran is a representative place for green tea in Kagoshima.
Chiran, Minamikyushu city is located in a southern part of the Satsuma peninsula.

According to legend, Heike no ochiudo (fugitive of Taira clan, whose clan was ruined by Minamoto clan in war) came to Chiran and started to cultivation of green tea at the Kamakura period.
Full-scale cultivation of green tea was started since the beginning of the Meiji period in Chiran.

Today, you can drink Chiran tea or buy the tea leaves everywhere in Kagoshima.
Local restaurants or tea stores serve the tea for you.
Even you can buy Chiran tea in plastic bottle from vending machine on the street.
Chiran tea is aromatic and smooth to drink, so you will like it.

You can enjoy Chiran tea without to go to Chiran, but Chiran has a beautiful view of large tea field, so if you see the view, maybe you will be able to enjoy the tea more.

Getanha, a local traditional sweet in Kagoshima

There is a traditonal sweet named "getanha" in Kagoshima.
Getanha (Kagoshima dialect for "geta no ha") means a support part of geta (traditional wooden clogs).
The form of the sweet looks like a getanha, so it was named getanha.
The sweet getanha is a sort of cake and it is covered by brown sugar.
It has a bit crunchy texture in the surface of it for brown sugar.
But the inside was soft and easy to chew.
Getanha is very sweet food, however if you stay in very hot summer of Kagoshima, you must feel the sweetness is so desirable.
Hot weather makes us want more sugar.
That's why we can find very sweet foods in hot places like Kagosima.

Brown sugar is a special product in Kagoshima prefecture.
So Kagoshima has some local foods made of the brown sugar.
Getanha is one of them.
You can buy the sweet everywhere in Kagoshima with inexpensive price.
I enjoyed it with a green tea which also made in Kagoshima.
I recommend you to taste both getanha and green tea in Kagoshima.
I am sure you will love both of them.

The Fujishiro shrine, the place relates to the name Suzuki and Minakata Kumagusu

The Fujishiro shrine is located in Kainan city, Wakayama.
It is very old shrine and on the route of the pilgrimage to the holy place Kumano.
It is one of the Kujuku (99) Ouji shrines (which founded on route of the pilgrimage to Kumano by mountain priests), and it is a high ranked one among the Kujuku Ouji.
Many Emperors and noblemen have visited the shrine on the pilgrimage to Kumano.

There is an another place that made the shrine popular today.
The Suzuki Yashiki (the residence of Suzuki) is it.
The place is in the precincts of Fujishiro shrine.
According to legend, the place was the origin of the family name Suzuki, which scattered all over Japan.
You can meet people who have name Suzuki everywhere in Japan.
The residence was for Fujishiro-Suzuki clan, the clan of the priest of Fujishiro shrine.
Since ancient times, priests from Fujishiro-Suzuki clan spread their belief of the holy place Kumano, and as their belief spread to all over Japan, people who influenced by them started using the name Suzuki for themselves.
That's why there are so many Suzuki san in Japan.
Today Suzuki Yashiki is deteriorated and no one is living there.
However still many Suzuki san come to visit the place of their origin from all over Japan.

Also a big old kusunoki (camphor) tree have been enshrined in precincts of Fujishiro shrine.
There was a famous naturalist from Wakayama, Minakata Kumagusu (1867-1941), and his name "Kumagusu" came from the tree.
Kuma means bear, and Gusu means kusunoki.
Kusunoki trees have been worshiped in Japan, and there was a custom to name baby the name which relating kusunoki tree.
Kusunoki trees live long and prosper, so I guess you see why people have named their babies kusunoki.

I am not a particular fan of Suzuki san, but a fan of Minakata Kumagusu.
So when I visited the shrine and saw the big old kusunoki tree, I was deeply affected.

Ashikaga Gakko, the oldest university in Japan

The historical heritage Ashikaga Gakko (Ashikaga school) is located in Ashikaga city, Tochigi.

The school had old traditional buildings, library, traditional Japanese-style garden and even vegetable gardens in the school grounds.

There are various theories about the origin of Ashikaga Gakko.

The theories say it was founded in Heian, Kamakura or Muromachi period. 

So the time the school build is still not confirmed, but it was sure that Uesugi Norizane rebuilt the school at the Muromachi period.

Uesugi Norizane (1410-1466) was on the position of "Kanto Kanrei (a deputy for Kanto region)" at the time.

He contributed texts of the Chinese classics to the school and invited the Zen monk Kaigen from Kamakura as the head of the school.

Like Kaigen most of teachers were monks, but Uesugi Norizane set the rule that the school didn't teach any Buddhism texts to students.

There had been Buddhism schools that was run by temples such as Enryaku-ji or Kongobu-ji in Japan, but as a school which didn't teach any Buddhism, Ashikaga Gakko was the first one.

The people came to study Confucianism, the art of divination, military science or other studies from all over Japan.

Ashikaga Gakko got a great reputation.

Also in 1549, the Catholic missionary Francis Xavier who came to Japan, called the school "The greatest, largest and most famous university of Kanto region".

Some of Graduates from the school hired by daimyo or warlords as strategists.

To become strategists, to enroll to Ashikaga Gakko was the most certain way.

Today Ashikaga Gakko is managed as a historical site and not a public school, but still they have some classes about Chinese classics for applicants.

If you learn the studies at the school, maybe you can have same experience as former strategists at the medieval period.

Yoshimi Hyakuana, the hundred caves of Yoshimi

Yoshimi Hyakuana (the hundred caves of Yoshimi) is a cluster of tomb caves which is located in Yoshimi, Saitama.
It is a kind of tunnel tombs and was dug on the cliff of tuff.
Many Kofun (tumulus) were made at the Kofun period (between the end of 3 century to 7 century) in Japan, and Yoshimi Hyakuana was made at the later Kofun period, 6 century to 7 century.

At the early Kofun period, people had made big kofun for kings or heads of powerful families.
For the structure of the kofun at the times, the stone coffin inside had covered by stone huts and soil.
So when additional burials was made, people had to break the outside of the kofun once.

In contrast, tunnel tombs like Yoshimi Hyakuana was suitable for an additional burial.
People dug a cave and put a body inside, and set a cover made of stone on the entrance of the cave.
If they took off the cover, they could easily put another body inside again.
The big Kofun was for powerful people, and the tunnel tombs like Yoshimi Hyakuana were rather for ordinary people.

Ancient people made Yoshimi Hyakuana.
Besides that, also people in modern times dug tunnel under the same cliff of tuff.
In 1944 and 1945, a munitions factory was made under the ground of Yoshimi Hyakuana and area around there.
The factory was for making aircraft parts, and the tunnel for the factory was dug extensively under the ground.
Even today, the tunnel remains.

If you come Yoshimi Hyakuana, you can see that there are so many open caves on the cliff from the sidewalk.
Moreover, there is a precious thing to see.
In some of the caves, luminous mosses grow.
It is unusual that luminous mosses naturally grow in Kanto region.
It is worth to watch.

You can visit the caves of ancient tombs, the site of a factory at the war times and luminous moss at the same time.
Yoshimi Hyakuana will stimulate your imagination somehow.

The lady lord on the castle, Tachibana Ginchiyo

Tachibana Ginchiyo was born in Chikugo (part of current Fukuoka) province at the Azuchi-Momoyama period.
She was only child of Tachibana Dosetsu (in other name Bekki Akitsura), the legendary warlord of Otomo family.
Dosetsu had been in charge of Tachibana-yama castle in Chikuzen (part of current Fukuoka) province.
He couldn't get his son, so when he retired, he transferred the headship of the family to Ginchiyo in 1575.
At the times, it was unusual that women became a head of samurai family.
She was only 7 years old at this time.
Also she became the lord of Tachibana-yama castle.
According to legend, Dosetsu doted on her so much and taught her military tactics and military arts.
She was brought up as an independent lady.

When she was 13 years old she married Takahashi Munetora aka Tachibana Muneshige, a son of Takahashi Joun, another legendary warlord of Otomo clan.
Muneshige was adopted to Tachibana family to marry Ginchiyo.

Dousetsu hoped Ginchiyo and Muneshige retained Tachibana family together.
However their relationship was not very good.
As a strong and independent lady, Ginchiyo rarely obeyed to her husband.
Sometimes even she looked down Muneshige.
After Dosetsu died, their relationship grew worse and worse.
Muneshige got the Yanagawa castle in Chikugo province as a reward of war, and he moved to his new castle with Ginchiyo.
However, soon his wife got out of the castle alone.
That is, she chose to live apart from Muneshige finally.
Ginchiyo lived in a residence which was located far outside of the castle, with her waiting maids.

When the Sekigahara war broke out, Muneshige fought in siege of Yanagawa castle.
Yanagawa castle was great for defensive battles.
But Ginchiyo stayed in her residence.
She had fighting skills and tactics that her father told her.
She ordered to local peasants and fishermen to defend coast line.
So, the enemy couldn't invade her domain by seaside.
She survived her war with her armed waiting maids.

Finally the war was over by surrender of Muneshige to the enemy.
Munesige and Ginchiyo lost their domain.
Munesige became a ronin, and Ginchiyo had to live in a house of local peasant.
After 2 years later from the war, in 1602, Ginchiyo died for illness.
She was 34 years old.
Ginchiyo and Muneshige hadn't had any children.

The relationship between the wife and the husband was not good all the time.
But later, Muneshige got a promotion to daimyo in Tokugawa shogunate and came back to Yanagawa castle again.
At the time, he founded a family temple for Ginchiyo in his old domain.

Our father of Japanese medical science, Ogata Koan

Ogata Koan (1810-1863) was born in Bitchu (the part of current Okayama) province as a son of lower-ranked samurai.
He had a weak constitution  for samurai so he aimed at become a medical doctor.

When his father was transferred to Osaka for work, he came to Osaka with his father.
While he stayed in Osaka, he learnt Rangaku (studies of western sciences) and medial science under a Ranpou-i (doctor who practices western medicine), Naka Tenyu.
Later he learnt Rangaku also at Edo and Nagasaki.

He came back Osaka and in 1838, he practiced medicine and founded Teki-juku, the school of Rangaku.
Also he married with Yae, a daughter of the Ranpou-i Okugawa Hyakki in this year.
At Teki-juku he taught students Rangaku gently but strictly same time.
He became popular for his gentle character and his great skill as both medical doctor and Rangaku teacher, therefore young people who hope to enroll to Teki-juku increased day by day.
Students came from all over Japan to Teki-juku.

Ogata Kouan started smallpox vaccination in Osaka, and saved many lives.
Also he strove to popularize the treatment among society.

For his great reputation, Tokugawa shogunate asked Koan to be a private doctor for shogun.
Kouan had to obey this offer, but it was not his wish.
He couldn't have better life in Edo than he had in Osaka.
He was getting weaker and died suddenly in 1863.

The way he died was a tragedy for a great person like him.
But he left great heritage to posterity.
The graduates from his Teki-juku flourished in society.
Moreover there were many great people in Japanese history from that graduates.
Such as Fukuzawa Yukichi (the founder of Keio university), Otori Keisuke (military leader), Sano Tsunetami (politician) and Tezuka Ryosen (the grand-grand father of Tezuka Osamu, the great manga artist).

Teki-juku was closed in 1868, but the building of Teki-juku was rebuilt in 1980 and still remain at same place before.
You can tour inside the traditional style building.
Now it was managed as a museum by Osaka university.
It is said that Teki-juku became the origin of the Osaka university.
Koan made a base of Japanese medical science in Osaka.

Chogen, the monk who governed province to rebuild Daibutsu and Todai-ji

Chogen (1121-1206) was a monk of Shingon sect of Japanese Buddhism at the Heian and Kamakura period.
He is famous for his reconstruction of the Todai-ji temple and the Daibutsu-den hall (a hall for the huge statue of Buddha) in the temple.
According to legend, in his first half of life Chogen had experiences as a hijiri (the Buddhist missionary) and had been to China 3 times.
In addition some theory told that he met the monk Eisai (the founder of Rinzai sect) while they stayed in China.

In the former Genpei war between Minamoto clan and Taira clan in 1180, Todai-ji temple was burned by the warlord Taira no Shigehira of Taira clan.
The next year Chogen was appointed to the post to manage the project for the reconstruction of Todai-ji.
At this time Chogen was 61 years old already.
He managed to organize architects and missionaries who collect funds for the reconstruction.
Also he got support from Chinese architect Chin Wakei.
Chogen made 6 carts for touring places to collect funds, and even himself got on one of the carts and toured places.

In temporary he was given Suo (the eastern part of current Yamaguchi) province by Imperial court for his project.
From that he became kokushi (provincial governor) and was called "kokushi-shonin (the provincial governor saint)".
So he could have a right to get building materials and tax from these provinces.
But he had many obstacles on the process.
When he tried to get lumber in Suo province, local powerful families such as Ouchi clan interfered Chogen's business.
Also to get supporters who give fund to Chogen was difficult too.
Sometimes even he used dirty tricks to get powerful supporters.
He did everything to achieve success on the project.

He accomplished the reconstruction of Daibutsu (statue of Buddha) in 1185, then Daibutsu-den and some other buildings in Todai-ji in 1195.
He continued the project of reconstruction, however in 1206, he died.
He was 86 years old at the time.

Not only he dedicated his later life to the project, also he made various temples and maintained infrastructures at many places.
Especially in Yamaguchi prefecture, you can find many historical sites relating Chogen.
Even there is a daibutsu which was made of stone by Chogen in Houfu city.
Maybe it is fun to see and compare both daibutsu of Nara and Yamaguchi.

The unique Chinese style temple and Buddhist cuisine, Manpuku-ji

The Manpuku-ji temple in Uji, Kyoto, is the head temple of Japanese Buddhism Oubaku sect.
The temple built in 1661 at the Edo period.
Oubaku sect is not so old as a Japanese Buddhist Zen sect.
However it has unique temples for it's Chinese style of architecture.
The buildings in the precincts of Manpuku-ji look like ones from Chinese temple.

Oubaku sect was founded by the Chinese monk Ingen.
Ingen came to Nagasaki with his disciples for the invitation by monks in Nagasaki, and later he moved to Settsu province (the part of current Osaka).
At first he had a plan to go back China after 3 years, however his followers in Japan asked him to stay longer.
Besides that, Tokugawa shogunate apportioned him a land in Uji, and also Manpuku-ji was built for Ingen.
Finally Ingen abandoned the first plan and decided to stay in Japan forever.
At Manpuku-ji they had called their sect Rinzai first, however they changed the name Oubaku later.
"Oubaku" came from the mountain in China where Ingen had had his first "Manpuku-ji" temple before.

Ingen was respected by many people, and even former Emperor, Tokugawa shogun, high ranking governors and noblemen became believers of him.
Intellectuals in Japan gathered to meet him.
Ingen gave them Zen teachings and new knowledge which China culture had.

As an example, according to legend Ingen brought a sort of bean with him to Japan.
The bean is called "Ingen-mame (the bean of Ingen)".
Even today you can see Ingen-mame in super markets or vegetable stores in Japan.

In addition, we can have a Fucha-ryori (Chinese Style vegetarian gourmet) in Manpuku-ji and restaurants around the temple.
It is a sort of Shojin-ryori (Buddhist cuisine which served in Japanese Buddhism temples), but it has unique Chinese style.
It's origin was the Buddhist cuisine in China which Ingen introduced to Japan.
Manpuku-ji have served it to entertain people by tasty and novel vegetarian foods.
Still we can have it around the temple today.
However if you want to Fucha-ryori in a complete meal, usually you need a reservation to the temple or other restaurants.
Please keep it in your mind.

Sasaki shrine is located in the birthplace of the family name Sasaki

If you come to Japan, perhaps you will meet person who has the name "Sasaki".
Sasaki is one of typical family names in Japan.
The origin of the family name was the manor of Sasaki in Omi province (the same area as current Shiga prefecture).
The Sasaki shrine is located in the area where the manor of Sasaki had existed.

There was a reason why the family name Sasaki spread all over Japan.
At the Heian and Kamakura period, the warlord Sasaki Hideyoshi and his sons who based in the manor of Sasaki fought under the Minamoto clan.
Minamoto clan founded Kamakura shogunate, and for their contribution to battles, Sasaki clan got new domains and their offspring have spread to there.
As a result, Sasaki clan and also their name Sasaki extended.

At the medieval period, there were many family of daimyo or warlords which had came from Sasaki clan.
Rokkaku, Amako and Kyogoku were famous as medieval daimyo.
Especially, Rokkaku family have ruled the south part of Omi province which included the manor of Sasaki.
They were the direct line of descent of the Sasaki clan.
However Rokkaku family was defeated and ruined by daimyo Oda Nobunaga from Owari province (the western part of current Aichi) in battles, therefore they had to leave the birthplace of their clan.

Even though that, Sasaki shrine have been worshiped by the descendants of Sasaki clan as their guardian deity.
Today, people who have the name Sasaki come to visit the shrine from all over Japan.
The shrine is located in Omihachiman city, Shiga.
If you visit the shrine and find many tourists in the precincts there, some of them must be Sasaki san.

A beautiful scenic spot the Satta-touge pass had historical events

The Satta-touge pass is a must-see place for Mt. Fuji lovers.

The place is located in Yui town, Shizuoka.

The pass is on the road at the coastal Mt. Satta near Suruga Bay. 

You can enjoy the spectacular view of Mt. Fuji over Suruga Bay from Satta-touge.

Also the pass have been a important traffic point.

Satta-touge was on Toukaido route (the route between Edo to Kyoto).

To travel between Kansai and Kanto region, people often went through the pass.

Even army corps at the medieval times used this route in military action.

Moreover, battles have happened on the pass by them.

The first battle of Satta-touge happened in 1351, by Ashikaga Takauji and Ashikaga Naoyoshi.

Ashikaga Takauji, the first shogun of Muromachi shogunate, was confronted by his own brother Naoyoshi at the time.

Takuji encamped on the pass to fight against army of Naoyoshi.

In opposite, Naoyoshi surrounded the mountain.

At first the strength of Takauji's army was far lower than Naoyoshi's one.

However his allies from Kanto region fought well, then finally Takauji could defeat Naoyoshi.

The second battle of Satta-touge happened in 1568.

At this time, two daimyo Imagawa Ujizane and Takeda Shingen fought with each other.

Takeda Shingen of Kai province (current Yamanashi) started a military action to invade Imagawa Ujizane's Suruga province (current Shizuoka) and led his army to Suruga.

Satta-touge was located on the only route to Suruga from Kai, so Ujizane deployed his army there and stayed Seiken-ji temple, near the pass.

Their armies had the battle at the pass.

Ujizane fought well, however Shingen communicated to warlords of Ujizane secretly.

After Ujizane noticed the fact he felt danger and left to Sunpu (the capital of Suruga) from Seiken-ji.

As soon as his army know Ujizane's evacuation, the army collapsed.

A lot of soldiers must have died the pass with the battles, but today, we can hardly imagine the fact when we walk on the pass.

It is a beautiful place.

Now Satta-pass has observation place and trekking route which easy to walk.

From the observation place, Mt. Fuji looks so big and beautiful.

Kudara-ou shrine was where the royal family of Beakje remained

At the battle of Hakusukinoe (the battle of Baekgang) in Korean peninsula in 663, Japan and Baekje (one of the three kingdoms of ancient Korea) fought against Silla (another one of three kingdoms of ancient Korea) and the Tang dynasty of China.
As a result, Japan and Beakje were defeated and Baekje kingdom was ruined.

After the battle of Hakusukinoe, survived member of the royal family of Baekje exiled to Japan.
The prince Zenkou was in them.
He was given the family name "Kudara-ou (the king of Beakje)" by the imperial court as a vassal.
Also he was given a domain in Naniwa (an seaside area in current Osaka), and he lived there with his clan.

At the times of Kudara-ou Kyoufuku, the grandson of Zenkou, they obtained a rank and given another domain at Kawachi province (the eastern part of current Osaka) for paying golds to the imperial court.
They migrated to the domain of Kawachi from Naniwa.
Later, Kudara-ou clan founded Kudara-ji temple and Kudara-ou shirine the place.

Unfortunately Kudara-ji temple have burned down and buildings are not remained today.
We can see only the site of the temple.
However still there is Kudara-ou shirine.
The shrine and the site of Kudara-ji are located in Hirakata city, Osaka.
According to legend, the family of the priest of the shrine is a descendant of Kudara-ou clan.

A ordinary shrine in Japan is relating to an ancient Korean kingdom.
It is interesting, isn't it?

The first official Buddhist temple in Japan, Shitenno-ji

Shitenno-ji temple is located in Tennoji ward, Osaka city.
The temple founded in 593 by the founder of Japanese Buddhism Prince Shotoku, as the first official Buddhist temple in Japan.
"Shitenno" means the Four Heavenly Kings who support Buddhism.

According to legend, while Prince Shotoku had conflicts with Mononobe clan, he wished to win and promised to found a temple of Shitenno for salvation of people in all over Japan if he could win.
After the victory over the conflicts, he founded Shitenno-ji temple as he had promised before.

As first temple of the kind, Shitenno-ji is a very unique one among Japanese temples.

The style of layout of the temple called "Shitenno-ji garan haichi (the Shitenno-ji building layout)" and it is oldest one of styles of Japanese temple layout.
Nowadays you rarely see the style in Japanese temples except Shitenno-ji.
Also the temple ground of Shitenno-ji is huge, so you can see interesting Buddhist buildings there.

In addition, they have a religious ceremony of Bugaku (the traditional dance with music came from Western Asia in ancient times) in April 23 (the death anniversary of Prince Shotoku).
Still we can see the traditional culture of ancient times in it.
The ceremony shows us how Prince Shotoku have been connected strongly to foreign cultures.

There are many sightseeing spots around Shitenno-ji such us the Tennoji park, Namba city or Tsuruhashi town.
You can visit all of them at one day, so I recommend you to tour around Shitenno-ji.

Kouka-ryu Ninjutsu Yashiki, the residence of the lord of ninja

Kouka city, Shiga, is famous for their history of ninja as well as Iga city, Mie.

Ninja in Kouka got their popularity at the battle of "Magari no Jin" in 1487.
At the war, Shougun Ashikaga Yoshihisa took a military expedition against the hostile daimyo Rokkaku Takayori, however Takayori used Kouka ninjas who belonged to him effectively.
As a result, Takayori achieved successful defense, and he and his ninjas got a fame for the battle.
After that, thanks to the fame, Kouka ninjas have been employed by many daimyo as a mercenary.

Even though trails of ninja are hard to find nowadays, there are some clues.
Still today, a residence of the lord of Kouka ninja remains in Kouka.
It is called "Kouka-ryu Ninjutsu Yashiki (Kouka style ninjutsu residence)".

It is located in a residential quarter in paddy fields.
The residence was built at the Edo period for the one of Kouka ninja lord Mochizuki Izumonokami.
It looks ordinary traditional Japanese residence from outside, but you can find many interesting points inside.

It has secret windows, a secret door and hiding places inside attic and under the floor.
You can tour inside the residence with explanation by staffs.
Also you can see exhibitions of tools of ninja there.
Besides that, they serve you a cup of medicinal tea (it have been sold by Mochizuki family in hundreds of years) for free, and if you pay extra money, you can experience to throw shuriken (a throwing-knife) to targets or you can disguise a ninja.
When I have been to there, I tried to throw the shuriken.
In throwing that, I was not so bad as a ninja.

Mochiduki family has made medicine in peaceful times for their living.
They could get ingredients of medicine from a nature-rich surroundings such as Mt. Ibuki.
I hope you can enjoy history and nature of Kouka and Shiga.

The temple for mothers, Jison-in

The Jison-in temple is located in Kudoyama, Wakayama.
The temple is on the pilgrimage route to Mt. Koya, the sacred place for Shingon sect of Japanese Buddhism.
The temple was founded in 816 by Kukai (the founder of the Shingon sect).

According to legend, when the mother of Kukai came a long way to Mt. Koya to meet her son, she couldn't enter Mt. Koya.
In that times, women couldn't enter religious sacred places like Mt. Koya for the "Nyonin-kinsei (No women admitted)" rule.
Even a mother of the founder couldn't enter the mountain.

So she stayed Jison-in.
Kukai visited his mother at the temple 9 times in a month from Mt. Koya, so the area around the temple was named "Kudo-yama (the mountain of 9 times)".
They met there.
In addition, while she stayed the temple she worshiped Miroku Bosatsu (a Buddhist saint).
The word "Jison" of the temple's name is another word for the Miroku Bosatsu.
The temple is also called "Nyonin-Koya (Mt. Koya for women)" because of the mother of Kukai have spent her religious life and met his son Kukai at the temple.
While the ages women couldn't visit Mt. Koya, they have visited Jison-in instead.

Even though women can enter Mt. Koya as well as men today, still Jison-in is worshiped by women as a temple of mothers.
As the mother of Kukai came a long way to visit his son with her great motherly affection, many women visit Jison-in to worship Miroku Bosatsu and the mother of Kukai.

Inside the temple there are so many women's breast shaped models.
You may feel it a little funny.
However, the models have been dedicated by mothers to wish their abundant produce of milk.
If you have a chance to visit the temple, please don't forget that you are in a sacred place for women.

The descendant of Muromachi shogun, Awa Kubou

It was the Sengoku period.

A daimyo and one of most powerful clans in Muromachi period, Miyoshi clan had a trouble with shogun Ashikaga Yoshiteru.

So they plotted to back an another shougun up instead Yoshiteru.

In Awa domain (the area currently Tokushima prefecture), Ashikaga Yoshihide (1538-1568) was there.

Yoshihide's father was Ashikaga Yoshitsuna, and mother was a daughter of Ouchi Yoshioki (a powerful daimyo of Suo province).

The Miyoshi three (Miyoshi Nagayasu, Miyoshi Masayasu and Iwanari Tomomichi) who were in charge of Miyoshi clan, and Matsunaga Hisahide (a warlord of Miyoshi clan, even today he is famous for his many anecdotes) took Yoshihide to Settsu province (area between parts of current Osaka and Hyogo) and made him the 14th shougun of the Muromachi shogunate. 

Basically, successive Muromachi shogun had administered affairs in Kyoto, however Yoshihide had an ill and because of this, he couldn't enter to Kyoto.

He stayed in Settsu.

Unfortunately the reign by the shogun Yoshihide finished in only seven months.

Oda Nobunaga, the famous daimyo from Owari province (west part of current Aichi) invaded Kyoto taking Yoshihide's cousin Ashikaga Yoshiaki with him.

The Miyoshi three lost to Nobunaga and lost their power.

Nobunaga made Yoshiaki the 15th shougun of Muromachi shogunate.

Yoshihide had to escape to Awa (or according to some theory he escaped to other province).

Soon after that, his ill got worse and he died at the age of 31.

Since the death of Yoshihide his offspring have remained at Hirajima, Awa province.

The local folks called them "Awa (or Hirajima) Kubou" with respect.

The word Kubou was used to mean shogun at the times.

But actually, they had no power at all.

Besides, they have been treated coldly by daimyo Hachisuka family of Awa domain through Edo period.

They couldn't get enough income, so finally they started to sell their hand made "a charm against poisonous snake" to people to get money.

That was not suitable business for the family of former shogun, but they had to do that for living. 

Eventually they moved to Kyoto, but they couldn't get enough income there too.

At the Meiji period, normally daimyo and samurai could get the status by their former background, but Awa kubou couldn't get approved their status as samurai.

They lived Maiji period as a commoner.

Today, the site of the residence of Awa kubou is surrounded by only paddy fields, but there is a small museum "Awa kubou minzoku shiryokan (the Awa kubou museum of history and folklore)".

It is located Anan city, Tokushima prefecture.

The museum has exhibitions about Awa Kubou and the culture of peasants of Hirajima.

Even once His Imperial Highness of Japan have visited this museum.

There is a luxurious sofa that he took a rest.

Also you can sit on it after or before touring inside the museum.

Kagiya no Tutsuji, the place the famous duel of vengeance was held

There are three famous duels of vengeance in Japanese history.

The duel of vengeance by Soga brothers in 1193.
The duel of vengeance by 47 ronin of Ako domain in 1703.
Then, the duel of vengeance by Watanabe Kazuma and Araki Mataemon in 1634.
Last one called "Kagiya no Tsuji no Ketto (the duel at the crossroads of Kagiya)".

The "Kagiya no Tsuji no Ketto" was happened at Iga province, now Iga city in Mie prefecture.
As the beginning of the events, a samurai Kawai Matagoro in Okayama domain fell in love with a colleague and beautiful young samurai Watanabe Gendayu.
Therefore Kawai Matagoro tried to have a special relationship with Watanabe Gendayu, but Gendayu refused him.
Devastated Matagoro killed Gendayu.
After his crime Matagoro left his domain and escaped to Edo.

Gendayu was a favorite boy of daimyo of Okayama domain, Ikeda Tadakatsu.
Tadakatsu got furious and asked Tokugawa shogunate to send Matagoro back, but he couldn't get Matagoro.
Few yeas later Tadakatsu got a serious illness and on his death bed he left a will that to revenge to Matagoro for the death of Gendayu.

In the situation, the brother of Gendayu, Watanabe Kazuma had to revenge for his young brother by the will of his master Ikeda Tadakatsu.
Unfortunately Kazuma was not good with sword skill to accomplish his revenge.
So, he asked help to his brother in law, the Yagyu style sword master Araki Mataemon,

Kazuma and Mataemon got information that Matagoro were hyding in Yamato province (current Nara) and was trying to escape to Edo again.
Kazuma and Mataemon made a plan to wait Matagoro at the Kagiya no Tsuji, the place located on the route of Yamato to Edo.
They waited their villain at the place.

Finally they met with Matagoro there.
Matagoro took his ten helpers including a spear master Sakurai Hanbei with him.
In contrast, the team of the avenger consisted of only four people.
The historical duel happened.
Even though they were in bad situation, the team of Kazuma killed or drove away the all villains except Kawai Matagoro.
Watanabe Kazuma and Kawai Matagoro had the last duel over long hours by only two of them and finally, Kazuma accomplished his vengeance.

Because of his work at the duel Araki Mataemon got a honer and left his name to posterity.
Also "koudan (Japanese story telling)" stories about the historical duel were made, and became famous.
But soon after the duel, Araki Mataemon died the mysterious death.
It seems the duel was related some complicated political matters, and there are some mysterious points about the duel still.
The Kagiya no Tsuji is a quiet place now.